Saturday, August 7, 2010

WE MADE IT!

Highest point in Africa, tallest free-standing mountain in the world. Mt. Kilimanjaro- I seriously underestimated you.

I've been staring at this mountain everyday day when I walk back from the clinic through this lovely open field. The mountain looks so majestic and peaceful, but it is huge, gnarly and cold. Not to say that I didn't have an amazing time doing it but it was much more than I expected in every way. Everyday was a new adventure in new terrain. Day 1 we started at the Machame gate and hiked (in rain- much like hiking at home in late winter, early spring actually) through the rain forest and through the clouds for 6 hours. Unfortunately the rain didn't really let up and because my rain pants turned out to be just pants, the first night was a bit of a negative and chilly intro to the mountain. Day 2 was clearer and drier for the climb up a consistently very steep hillside that involved some rock climbing skills that I didn't previously have, but have now acquired. It was a shorter day (only 3 hours) so we had lunch and a little rest and did a short up and back hike to a near-by camp. Day 3 was dry and cold. You forget that even though it is cold and windy, if there are no clouds in the sky you are going to get burnt. And I did, but I've learned my lesson and if I am ever at 4000m above sea level again I will remember the spf (I wore spf70 for the rest of the climb- that's how strong the sun is.) We hiked up to Lava Towers which is at 4650m for acclimatization and then back down to 3900m to camp. This was the first time that we could really appreciate the scenery now being above all the clouds. It looked like you could just hop down and walk along them for as far as you could see. Quite amazing but it also reminded you of how high up you were. Christine and I were both taking Diamox (altitude sickness meds) so weren't feeling too bad but the illness hit Jen bad. The headache and nausea were described as the worst hangover you have ever had times a thousand. Luckily it only lasted over night and with a leisurely start to the morning she was ready to go again. Such a trooper! Day 4 started out scary. I woke up in the morning to use the more disgusting port-a-potty you could ever imagine. I wasn't really fully awake yet but stumble across some new friends from the UK that were part of a big group climbing for charity. They were looking up at this large rock face that I had noted the night before and told me that was Great Barranco Wall which we would have to go not around, not through, not under but OVER to start off our trek for the day. It involved more rock climbing skills than I previously had but I adapted and now maybe I can do some more rock climbing at home- pretty well a professional now! I also had a slight episode involving my fear of heights that caught me in a moment of weakness as I hugged a boulder 100m above the ground in order to get my footing for the next step. I likened it to the beginning of the Mission Impossible film where Tom Cruise is dangling from the underside of an overhang (that may be a little dramatic!) Christine made a good point in asking why I decided to climb the tallest free-standing mountain in the world if I had a fear of heights- fair question, I had no answer. After I conquered the wall (which was an accomplishment enough for me) we continued to climb in to and out of 3 valleys on the way to Karanga camp. We had lunch and a relaxing afternoon of nothing but napping a scoping out the other climbers. Day 5 started out early at 8am with a 3 hour trip up to Barafu hut which was the last stop before the summit. We did indeed stop but only for 20 minutes. It was only enough time to put on our thermal layers, inhale a power bar and make sure we had enough water with us and it was off to the summit. Six hours later (after some episodes of nausea on my part, I will admit) we reached Stella point which is approximately 100m (altitude) below the peak. It was where I also got my second wind. I was so excited that I was able to challenge myself and make it this far, there was absolutely no way I wasn't going all the way to Uhuru Peak, 5895m above sea level! I crossed my arms to conserve as much heat as possible and I had the most emotional walk with the most breath-taking view. We had walked 9 hours already that day and to say I was a little tired is quite the understatement. I was also really proud of myself. It is always easier to give up and not follow through with something but it feels SO much better when you power on through. That is how good I felt- I won't lie, there may have been a teary eye or two. It's not like I'm mountaineer extraordinaire back at home. Anyway, after 2.5 hours coming back down to Barafu in the dark we were ready for the best sleep of our lives. Unfortunately it didn't happen. It just so happens we were too tired to sleep, it is possible! Day 6 we were meant to hike down to Mwenka hut which is a 4 hour trip and then Day 7 was to be a 3 hour trip back down to the gate. We were all so tired of having Kili's slopes as our rocky mattresses and so ready for a shower that we made it to Mwenka in 2.5 hours and to the gate in 2 hours, all on day 6! It proved to be very rough on the knees and ankles but it felt good to have a proper rest of Friday night.

Kilimanjaro was one of the hardest and more satisfying things that I have ever done! I would definitely recommend it to anyone who wants to feel on top of the world. My limbs; however, are still recovering so if the above doesn't sound like the most carefree and positive details of the trip it's because I'm still a little jaded. Ask me once I am home and I will have nothing but perfect reviews of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

Jen, Laura and I are off to Zanzibar and Dar es Saalam tomorrow and internet may not be as easily accessible on the islands. We are all ready for some relaxing in the sun!

Love,
Leila